March 31, 2011
This camera also has a 3.0 LCD screen, which is quite large, making it easier to spot which pictures to keep and which to delete. If you snap a lot of pictures of moving targets, the image stabilization feature will be a feature that you will be quite impressed with. It steadies the frame so that your pictures will be clear and blur free. This feature is perfect for taking sports pictures, if you have unsteady hands, or any situation where you or your target will be moving. This camera has a 3.6x optical zoom and a Nikkor glass lens. This optical zoom feature will allow you to focus in close on far away objects or small details that you want to magnify without losing the sharpness of the photo.
Another impressive feature that the Nikon Coolpix L22 has is smile recognition. This camera detects when a person is smiling and will activate the shutter to take the picture. There is also blink detection in which the camera will warn you when someone is blinking to ensure that you take the best pictures at ease. Red eye reduction is another great feature and it will reduce or eliminate the appearance of red eyes of the subjects in your pictures.
The Nikon Coolpix L22 has two movie modes with scene auto selector and sound. This feature is great for shooting small movies, birthday parties, or just for fun. This camera comes with everything that you will need to get started taking pictures. Included in the box with this camera are two AA batteries, USB cable, strap, and a CD-ROM by Coolpix. This camera comes in a variety of colors. Choose from black, red, blue, and silver. This camera is quite popular and can be found at a variety of stores.
For digital cameras best buys are really available if you can spend alittle more. For the best digital camera under 200 dollars, there's much more to choose from. However fora digital camera under 100 dollars, the Nikon dollars, the Nikon Coolpix L22 should be given serious consideration.
March 30, 2011
So, you've bought a camera. But there's this teeny little problem about the whole thing: you don't know the first thing about cameras or the principles it functions on! Not to worry though, this article is here precisely for that purpose. To guide you through the basics of photography without sounding like a lecture in Physics. First things first, the camera is basically a device that captures the scene in front of you, using the same principle that applies to your eyes. Light enters your eyes, passes through the lens and forms a image on the retina.
Now, just hold that thought and think about the following points:
Aperture: This is nothing but the function of the camera that regulates the amount of light coming in the camera. Think of it as your iris which adjusts according to the light outside. Don't you experience a blackout of sorts when you enter a dark room from a brightly lit area? That's what happens when the aperture of the camera is inappropriately set. So, lower the light, higher the aperture.
Exposure: This is the amount of light that is allowed to fall on the film/sensor. Not much to explain here, but the correct manipulation of exposure can do aesthetic wonders for your photographs. Exposing your sensor for a long period, results in, more light falling on your sensor, making your picture brighter.
Shutter-Speed: Simple. The camera is your eye. The shutter is your eyelid. It's that easy. How to adjust shutter speeds to get awesome effects? Keep it fast if you want stop-motion photos. For example, sweat jerking off a footballer's forehead as he kicks the ball. Or, keep it slow if you want a blurry effect.
Lens: Every camera has a lens. Digital, SLR, mobile phone, you name it. They are the basic components of the camera and can be very helpful in defining your particular style of photograph. If you're a sports photographer, use a telephoto; for landscape, use wide angle and so on.
Depth of field - could be used to describe sharp focused area in a photograph. We can shoot either way area focused is sharp focused and foreground and or background are blurred While we also choose to take a photo where every element is sharp and crystal clean
These were just the basics of photography. Though reading it doesn't make you an expert, it sure will help you in understanding what those buttons on your DSLR are used for!.
If you are planning a wedding in an island in the Caribbean region, it will be best for you to also look for a great photographer that will capture your every moment in this special island paradise. A lot of people dreamed to prepare their own wedding but now that you are blessed with a partner that will marry you in this beautiful island, it will be best for you to know that there are lots of professional photographers that can help you with your concern. St. Croix Island is a part of the beautiful Islands of Caribbean. This place will give you a tropical adventure you have never experience in your entire life.
It has world class recreational activities that everyone will enjoy. Planning a wedding celebration in this kind of Island is possible, but you need to find someone that will organize everything for you. One of the most important parts of every vacation experience in Caribbean island is a good photo that will capture all your memories of the Island. Even if you are planning a wedding celebration or a simple vacation in this Island, you need to have pictures to remember this beautiful island. This island is a perfect getaway for your next adventure together with your friends or your family.
When you hire a photographer, you need to look for professional ones you can choose a portrait photographer if you would like to have your photos taken by someone who is well verse in portraits for weddings. You can also hire a professional photographer who is well verse in contemporary photography. He will be the one to arrange your photos and make it look artistic in the end. It is truly essential to find the right photographer that is taken from the right company. They will be the one to make your wedding extra special. You don't have to worry about rates because there are lots of online sites that are into this type of business so you will not worry much about it in the long run.
A lot of people don't know that they can still compare prices if they would like to hire a wedding photographer. Because of vast choices, it will be easier to find the right one now than it was before. They will take good care of your good memories in the Island. You can hire professional photographers to take pictures of you and your family or friends as you roam around the Island. If you are on a limited budget and hiring a photographer is not included in your budget, there is nothing to worry about because hiring them will not cost you much.
If you can afford it, you can also hire a photographer that is well verse in wildlife photography simply because they are an expert in taking photos in the wild. Since you will be getting married in an island, it will be best for you to also take photos within the area. You can also go diving and take the photographer with you for an underwater photo. This is a once in a lifetime occasion that should be dealt with. This event will be truly memorable and worth spending for because you not just enjoyed the entire event but you also get to gather photos that will remind you of this very memorable day. There are lots of activities that you do within the island and there is a need for you to capture all of this first time activities. You can be rest assured that the photographer from will always here to capture the most memorable moment of your stay.
March 29, 2011
Why Do Megapixels Matter?
The amount of megapixels a photograph has indicates how detailed the photo is. Generally, the higher the megapixel number, the better the detail. On digital prints, low megapixel count is noticeable, as lines are ill defined, colors are blurred, and any solid colors have a lot of "noise". With higher megapixel count, images are crisper, and closer represent the way the moment looked in reality.
Digital or Prints
If you're a social networking addict who uploads photos to the Internet with little desire to own a physical copy, 5 megapixels is more than enough. If you love making prints, especially large prints (8x10 or more), plan on investing in at least 5 megapixels. If you're seeking to make larger prints, such as 16 x 20, you'll need around 18.4 megapixels to attain optimum quality.
Decoration or Leisure
What are your plans for the photographs you're taking? If you're hoping to make a mural in your home of high-quality photos of varying sizes, invest in a camera with around 8-10 megapixels. If you just need a camera for everyday use and may get the occasional 4x6 print (the standard photo print size), you will be fine with 5 megapixels.
Point and Shoot Cameras
Point and shoot cameras are the everyman's camera: just point and shoot with little regard for the camera's settings. Quality P&S cameras come with 12.1 megapixels, but you can get away with far less than that: 5-7 megapixels is recommended for average camera use.
If you're seeking to be more than an amateur photographer, consider getting an SLR camera (camera with removable lens). With an SLR, you have more control over shutter speeds, ISO, white balance, and focus. Quality SLR cameras begin at around 6.1 megapixels and can be bought for around $400 used, but for a mere $50-$100 more you can easily find an SLR camera with 10.2 megapixels.
Pixel Size Matters
Pixels are "minute areas of illumination, one of many from which an image is composed".
The average person likely doesn't know anything about pixels, but knowing the pixel size of the camera you're about to purchase can make a large difference in quality. In cameras with low pixel sizes, "noise" is visible: the pixels show up as thousands of dots across the picture.
The larger the pixel, the more photons (amount of light) each pixel collects: similar to collecting more raindrops with a larger bucket. High-end cameras use larger pixels with high megapixel count and create crisp, seamless images. Consumer cameras boast 15.1 megapixel counts, but with very small pixels-which results in a lot of image noise. Therefore, it is better to have a camera with 5 or 7 megapixels with large pixels than 12.1 or 15.1 megapixels with small pixels.
The average consumer will be content with 5-7 megapixels, but if your goal is to take beautiful, crisp images with a lot of detail and minimal noise, consider pixel size before making your final purchasing decision.
March 28, 2011
When I first got started in photography, I was in a state of "portfolio building". In other words, I knew I wanted to take pictures and get paid for it, but I didn't have any pictures to show to potential clients. Ah, the infamous catch 22. So I did what 99% of wannabe professional photographers do... I started taking pictures of friends and family and in exchange for them "modeling" for me, I gave them a few prints (aka: TFP, time for prints.) It worked! I started building a portfolio of images that I could show people and say "hey, I'm a professional photographer. Now I'd like you to pay me XX for me to take YOUR pictures." If folks liked them, I was in business... and surprisingly enough to me at the time, they did like them.
Looking back at those images and the ones that followed over the next year or two, quite frankly I'm embarrassed by many of them and surprised that so many people actually wanted to pay me to take their portraits. That's not to say that they were horrible... compared to uncle Bob's. Compared to seasoned pro's though, well, let's just say I wasn't winning any grand champion awards (though I did take third place in the reflections category in the county fair! We'll save competitions for another article.) What I had realized though in building my portfolio and in those early days of charging clients for my services, was that if I could compose a decent image and didn't cut anybody's heads off... folks thought they were pretty good. Why? Because they couldn't get their kids to stand still for them and because grandma always cuts everybody's heads off in pictures (at least mine does... I love you Gammer, but you know it's true!)
At this same time I was getting started, I had this idealism that I would be able to bring "fine art portraiture" to the masses... in other words, amazing portraits at prices that could undercut the expensive studios. I remember actually writing somewhere, that I felt like "regular" people should be able to have the same high quality portraits as people who could afford to go to the fancy studios in town who were charging outrageous prices for people to get their pictures taken. I figured, if I got enough people through my doors at those "affordable" prices I'd be set for life. You see, while I loved photography, I hadn't yet been in business as a photographer. I mean, yeah, I had charged some people money for the work I did and had a business name and all, but I hadn't had to support my business or my family with that income yet.
Boy, was I in for some surprises!
So there were several factors at play during this time period. First, I was an inexperienced photographer with a decent eye but not such great technical skills. Second, as an inexperienced photographer, I didn't know much about quality prints and I was either giving away my digital files on a CD with sessions and/or getting all my prints for people done at Costco. I'm going to talk about the digital files in a minute, but lets talk about prints for just a second. I thought things were going along pretty well in terms of the product (prints) I was giving to people. I was charging a fair price ($18 for an 8?10 in 2005) and was getting a GREAT deal on my cost by getting them printed at my local Costco. I had even done a little research on printer profiles and had my online ordering set up so that I could get accurate colors through them. Then I had a huge wake up call.
I was graduated from an university I took all my camera gear with me including a couple of backdrops, lights and stands... the whole nine yards. The images themselves weren't too bad. I got home, posted them online and told people to start placing their orders. Well, my brother-in-laws mom ordered some prints from me and I got them all done, sent them off to her in California and about a week later I received an email from her. I don't remember the exact wording of the entire email, but I do remember this one part:
"Why is he gray? My grandson is not an Indian baby!"
Um, first of all, I'm not sure why she thinks Indian babies are gray... but, the point was that these were color images and babies should not be gray. I pulled out a bunch of other images that I had from Costco and when I looked at them with a now critical eye, she was right. Everyone was kinda gray. Wow! That's not good. So I had them redone and double checked my monitor, my color profiles, everything. I sent her the new prints. Better, but still gray. At that point, I started doing some serious research. I contacted several professional labs and had sample prints made. Here's what I found out:
1.Babies really are pink in printed images (not just on my computer monitor)
2.Quality does matter! I'm talking paper here to packaging.
I was truly blown away with this new-found knowledge and couldn't believe the difference that one discovery made in my presentation as a professional. And the funny thing is, I could now see my work in a different light. I could see the quality in what I was providing people. It boosted my confidence and guess what... I boosted my prices a little.
So my next big wake up call came in December of 2007. I had the amazingly fortunate opportunity to go to a week-long "digital boot camp" with one of the top photographers in the country, Kevin Kubota. It changed my world in terms of my career and who I am as a photographer. Without going into all of the details that would be way too long for this article, what I came out of that training with was an appreciation for who I am as an artist and as a business person. (Keep in mind that I had been doing this for about three years now and my technical skills were getting much better.) I had been so UNDER-valuing my work that it was just plain sad. I was basically giving it away. Why? Because I loved what I was doing and wanted to be able to share that with as many people as possible. In my mind, that meant that if I charged an "affordable" price that more people would hire me. I was doing charity work for several organizations and I was giving discounts hand over fist to any paying client who seemed like they needed one. At the first sign of resistance to my prices (which weren't that high to start with) I would start offering discounts and throwing things in for free. "Oh, you can't afford to pay for a session and for prints because of the new baby? Well here, let me throw those on a cd for you. How does $50 sound?"
That's great for a hobby, but it's sure as heck no way to run a business!
I'm a very compassionate person. I like to be involved in charity organizations and I like to help people. Kevin said something to us that was so profound about this... he said (and I'm paraphrasing here) "If you want to help somebody out who can't afford it, then give it to them for free. Otherwise, charge what your worth and what it takes to run your business successfully. Then take some of that money you've been so successful with and go help a whole bunch more people."
So what did I do? I came home and I got to work. I reworked my pricing. I reworked my philosophy on giving out my digital files. I reworked my branding and marketing to better match who I now saw myself as in terms of being a true professional with both passion and ability, as well as a business to run. I STOPPED giving my work away! Read that again... STOP GIVING YOUR WORK AWAY!
I had gone through a true metamorphosis from being a wannabe professional photographer in 2004, to a highly skilled, confident business woman and professional photographer in 2008. Four years and a world away from where I had started. That doesn't mean that I didn't have a whole lot more lessons to learn in a lot of areas, but I had taken myself and my business to the next level. That's what I want to help all of those aspiring photographers out there do as well. You don't have to start out with an art degree from a university to be a professional photographer. Anybody with a digital camera and a desire can do it... or can they?
I'm an optimist and a dreamer... so that part of me wants to say "YES!" absolutely everybody can do it. But here's the caveat to that... anybody can do it who is willing to step out of their comfort zone and learn what it takes to run a successful business and then have the guts to do it. The artist in us wants to dive into the creative process and be all about the smiles and fun. The business person in us must take a hard look at what it takes to be successful.
So, what are worth? And can you support yourself and your family on what you've been valuing your work at up until now? If the answer to those questions don't meet up with reality, then it's time to start making some changes.
Adobe Photoshop CS series
This is probably the most sophisticated and widely used software available on the market. The number of tools available is massive and if you know how to use them you will be able to achieve spectacular results. The two downfalls of this software are the price (which is very high) and the complexity, which means that if you want to be able to use this software effective you do need to undertake some sort of a training. Currently the latest Adobe Photoshop series is in CS5 which offered another upgrade and simplify tool for the user to deal with their assignment and design.
Adobe Photoshop Elements
This is simplified version of Photoshop and if you are only starting your photo editing journey than it is all you need. Great thing about Elements is that this software is available free of charge. It is very often included with your camera when you first buy it, and if not than you can download it from the internet. The only downside of this software is that it provides limited number of tools, so when you become more familiar with photo editing you might want to apply some other techniques which are no achievable with Elements.
This is the biggest competition for Photoshop. Price wise and functionality wise it is similar to Photoshop, so it is simply a matter of personal preference whether you go for Corel or Photoshop (similarly to choosing between Mac and PC). This software is complex and you will need some training and lots of practice to become familiar with it and use it confidently.
If you are just an amateur photographer using point and shoot camera and don't really want to spend your time editing every single photo with complicated software than Picasa is the way to go ( I can tell you this is one of the LAZIEST software for the newbies) . Picasa photo software is a free editing software available from Google ( YES, It is free PICASA ! ) .To use it you don't really need to know much about photo editing, as all the functions in Picasa photo software come with auto mode, which basically means that you click on one button and the software fixes the photo for you. It is extremely easy to use and probably the best place to start your photo editing education. Picasa photo software is seriously even a newbies that can handle it and play with software easy and in great flexibility.
Thus, it's up to you which software platform is suitable for you to take your picture and refine it to the best of the best picture for the publics and portfolio. But well, for my personal opinion that, Adobe Photoshop is the best software that can optimized my photo to be the best quality to show to my friend. So, how's yours ? Get it now ......
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March 27, 2011
First I'd like to get us all on the same page about what to expect. There is no free lunch here, but what we will discuss is a viable alternative for many photographers. This system is a blend of old technology and new and will likely involve purchasing some used equipment.
Further, the expensive branded systems have all of their remote flashes set and controlled from the camera position master unit; our on-the-cheap system will require the photographer to alter settings on each flash manually. This system is not TTL; the camera's meter isn't used at all to achieve exposure.
Many years ago Automatic Flash was the preferred system of flash exposure. The flash was mounted on the camera and exposure was determined using a scale and calculator on the back of the flash. After using the calculator settings were made to the camera and flash. A sensor on the front of the flash measured the flash output and quenched it when the proper amount of light had been emitted. It was a simple system and it worked very well for decades.
Our flash system is made up of three parts. First we need three flash units and they must be Automatic Flash-capable. It's time to get those Vivitar 283 and 285 flashes out of mothballs. They are ideal for this system. If you can't find yours try buying them off your buddy, they generally bring less than $50 each. Key here is to find flash units with Guide Numbers at or greater than 89 feet at 100ISO.
Next we need a set of flash triggers. For the triggers I like the Promaster 4-Channel Flash Trigger set. Here is the fun part: The expensive branded TTL multi-flash systems only work when they are all in line of sight.
However the Promaster 4-Channel trigger is radio frequency operated. Line of sight not required! Our system will need one trigger and three receivers with a total cost of under USD $100.
Last, we need some stands or tripods to hold the three flash units. Here we have lots of latitude, anything that has a 1/4X 20 threaded post will do. Look for supports that can hold the light anywhere from a foot off the floor to several feet above the subject. If the photographer chooses to use standard light stands they will probably cost about $25 each.
That's it, for about $300 we now have a three-flash remote lighting setup. All that's left is learning how to use it!
It will take some practice to develop the skills needed to use this system, but it won't be terribly hard. Most of the skills will be involved with learning lighting patterns and there are dozens of books on the subject. What concerns us however is discovering the settings we need to use with our new system.
Let's assume that we have a basic three-light setup: a fill light near camera position, a main light to one side of the subject and a hair light on the other side. The first thing we need to do is determine the setting for our main light. We use the calculator on the back of the flash and find the correct aperture for our camera. We set the flash sensor for this as well. Next we set the camera at the calculator's f-stop and the shutter speed to 1/90 second. Now we have a good exposure setting for our main light.
Next we take the settings we calculated for our main light and set our fill flash's sensor to expose one stop less. This is a little counter-intuitive because we are setting the shut off point of the flashes not the exposure point. If the main light is set for f/5.6 our fill light could be set one stop less - f/4.0 for example. We want one stop less light so the fill flash has to turn off faster than the main flash. The third flash, the hair light, we want to have one stop more exposure so we set it to shut off at f/8.0.
We are ready for a test. The camera shutter is tripped and the main flash pumps out enough light to expose at f/5.6, the correct exposure for the subject. The fill light has been fooled to turn off at an exposure of f/4.0 so it will supply one less stop of flash than the main. The hair light has been told to expose for f/8.0 so it will pump out one stop more light than the main flash.
The result will be a subject with a well exposed light from the side, the frontally positioned fill light to lessen shadows across the face, and a brighter hair light to offer separation of the subject from the background. The first attempts may look stark and unforgiving, but practice in positioning the lights will pay off well in eliminating the problem.
It will take some practice to determine the correct working distances between flash and subject. Further, if light modifiers such as umbrellas or soft boxes are used we need to make sure that the flash unit's sensor is still able to "see" the subject. I would strongly suggest that all three flash units be the same brand and model; it will help reduce any inconsistencies from one use to the next.
Experiment with different combinations of f-stop settings on the flashes. Try bouncing the flash to reduce the stark quality of the light or shoot through a handkerchief. Once the photographer has mastered the basics of this three-light system it can serve as a useful skill for years.
Alright, after you see, did you notice that all the lighting are perfectly distributed ? I bet you say YES .....
If you say NO, then I have no idea. But there is some tips how can make this really really perfect in flash photography, which allowed you to distribute the light perfectly without any mistake ALL IN MANUAL MODE. Are you ready ? Let's get into the point :
Tips 1 : Bounce angle of the flash
For the beginners or intermediate, I suggested that most of the flash angle are in 45 degree angle in back , else 75 degree flash angle front or back. I'm recommended for back angle flash , because the reason is simple , the back flash bounce with distribute all the light fairly in very large range either to the object or the people, instead for the front angle flash which distribute only partially to the object or person in close range. So, this is one of the method you can try to practice about it.
NOTE : Check your surrounding whether which is wall or ceiling is good for you in bouncing the flash.
Tips 2 : Aperture determined the flash intensity , Shutter Speed determined the environmental lighting, ISO Speed determined your light sensitivity.
It's all about your eye on looking your surrounding, you can determined the meter reading by overriding your setting to achieve the best exposure for the photo. Hence, the way to approach this, which is change the aperture , shutter speed and ISO speed according to the surrounding based on flash photography. In flash photography, aperture determined your flash intensity, so , means that the wider of the aperture , more light from the flash going through the camera sensor or opposite.
Next, is your shutter speed , check your surrounding whether is dark or bright, and then determined the setting according to the surrounding. The darker the area, the slower the shutter speed until the lowest limit is 1/60 seconds, while the brighter the area, you need higher shutter speed.
While for the ISO Speed , you can constant the aperture and shutter speed or you can change it too according the surrounding, the ISO Speed will change the sensitivity of light through the camera sensor. The higher the sensitivity, more light coming in. So, shutter speed, aperture, ISO speed must constant pay attention and play around with it.
Tips 3 : Manual Flash Power
Let's make an example, if you wish to not turned all the three setting I mentioned above, there is one last method you can do , is change your flash power setting through Canon Speedlite 580EXII manual power setting. OK, what is the minimum setting you want to try ? The power ratio of 1/8 is the suggested setting, after that , you have to modify the setting based on the surrounding to achieve the correct exposure on the subject. Let say , I set my power to 1/8, then shoot a subject ended up slightly dark, I turned the setting either 1/4, or 1/8 +0.7 ratio to see the result , and keep on repeat the same thing to try. After long term of practice, you should know what power to use when reach certain area.
Tips 4 : Flash Zoom Range
Not many people actually knows how to use the flash zoom meter in appropriate way, but now I'm happily to share this experience to you that the flash zoom range there is a relationship on distribute the light fairly and perfect onto the subject. Now, here's the story, the zoom range must set to MANUAL mode in order for you to modify the zoom motor inside the flash. Let say, my zoom range set to 28mm , this meter showed that it is very wide coverage distribution of light in a constant range to subject, but , I shot it and ended up overexposed ! How to solve it ? OK, here's the deal, you can modify the flash zoom range to either 35mm or 50mm or higher , then check through the coverage of the light distribution whether is appropriate to the subject or not. The experience will overriding your suggested setting on the automatic mode of zoom motor in Canon speedlite or other speedlite as well.
So, that's it for today, I hope you can improve your flash photography based on the tips that I researched for a long time and take it into practice. Have fun ! And I'll see you next time ......
The Canon EOS 600D or the EOS Rebel T3i , the latest development of Canon EOS camera lineup for the beginners market and it came with the latest model of EOS 1100D. To be honest , I did some test after the launching day , which the body of EOS 600D itself can be said very solid , light weight , and compact DSLR camera just like the previous model of EOS 550D, EOS 500D and EOS 1000D. In fact, this is one of the top class quality of beginners camera market in Canon EOS lineup where it equips the latest upgraded version of 14-bit D!G!C 4 image processor.
Nevertheless, the camera itself also an APS-C (or 1.6x crop factor) camera basically armed with high ISO capability which from ISO number 100-6400 even can be expandable to 12800. In addition , I'm very impressed by the video processing unit of the EOS 600D. Since the the 1040000 dot vari-angle 3 inch LCD screen that can be "rotatable" for video shooting , the full HD Movie Recording feature is awesome after the success from the predecessor EOS 550D. Next, what's make this EOS 600D so special which is , it added the latest feature from the EOS 60D that the available creative filters for in-camera editing feature like sepia, monochrome, and others are available in EOS 600D.
Finally, when comes to the system of the camera, what I love the most is the built-in wireless control flash system that allows the Canon Speedlites lineup to perform even greater when comes to strobist mode or wireless flash system on Speedlites series. Besides, as everyone knows that, Canon EOS lineup that allow the 60+ EF and EF-S lens to mount on it just except the EOS-1 series are only available to mount on the EF lens series, the EOS 600D is accessible with the EF and EF-S lens series. Also, the improved version of the iFCL metering system with 63-zone dual metering sensor gives the best impression on perfecting the exposure reading system for the beginners who learn in photography. By the way, I forget something , which is the ONLY FEATURE in EOS 600D which is the EOS Scene Intelligent Auto , which is determine the best setting for a scene to capture a photo. In addition , the EOS Scene Detection Technology automatically analyze the faces, movement , brightness, contrast and other variable readings for the EOS Scene Intelligent Auto, that really truly specialize for the consumers who are new in photography.
I can say that , EOS 600D is truly simple, flexible and suitable for the beginners in photography world , that many features are done by the camera but you yourself have to discover the true exposure of digital photography world as it can be one of the latest trend together with the latest model EOS 1100D for the beginners.
Summany for the EOS 600D :
1) Made by stainless steel and polycarbonate resin with glass fiber.
2) 18 Megapixel CMOS APS-C Sensor ( 1.6x crop factor sensor )
3) Burst shooting rate with 3.7 frames per second
4) EOS Full HD Movie with 1080p and HD Movie 720p recording system plus built-in microphone and speaker feature for the recording and playback.
5) 9 point sensor in viewfinder , sensitive when f/5.6 at cross-type at center, extra sensitive at f/2.8 center point
6) 63 zone Dual Metering Sensor, which 63 zone for Evaluative Metering , 9% of the zone for Partial Metering, 4% at center point for Spot Metering
7) ISO Speed from 100-6400 expandable to 12800
8) Flash sync speed at 1/200, normal shutter speed from 30 seconds to 1/4000 seconds plus bulb mode
9) 95% Viewfinder Coverage with magnification of x0.65
10) Lightweight and compact with only 570 gram included battery and memory card in form of SD/SDHC/SDXC card.
Hope you enjoy the latest technology of the Canon EOS lineup !
March 26, 2011
Which Camera is Right for Me?
Cell phone cameras are convenient and fun for quick snapshots with your friends, but the picture quality you'll get with a cell phone camera is questionable at best. Unless you're planning to limit your picture-taking to quickly uploaded snapshots of friends and scenes, your cell phone camera probably won't cut it.
Point and shoot cameras, also known as compact digital cameras, are lightweight and easy to stash in a pocket. The picture quality of the cheapest compact digital cameras is better than all but the very best cell camera phones. For many travelers, compact point and shoot digital cameras are the ideal companion on a vacation, and many of them even have the capacity to upload your photos directly to your blog, Flickr or Facebook account.
If your photographs are important to you, you'll likely want to step up the range to EVF - electronic viewfinder - digital cameras that have better lenses, and take much better pictures. They're still small enough to pack for your trip and easy to carry, though they won't quite fit in your pocket. For all but the most dedicated picture takers, EVF digital cameras will fill their needs.
If you're a serious photographer, you'll want a good digital single lens reflex - dSLR - camera, which are the most expensive cameras with prices that can range up to thousands of dollars. They're also heavier, weighing several pounds, and are harder to carry with you if you're backpacking or doing major walking while sightseeing. But the pictures will be top quality, and the range of lenses and accessories will allow you to take magazine-quality photos for serious work.
Specialty Digital Cameras
Many top-of-the-line dSLR cameras are equipped with rangefinder lenses, which automatically measure the distance to the subject and adjust the lens so that every photograph is in sharp focus.
Digital camcorders allow you to capture digital video as well as still shots. They range in price from very inexpensive, with quality to match, to very expensive, with accessories and everything you need to take high-quality digital video of your travels.
Travelers have several things to consider when choosing the best cameras for their needs. They include:
Power source: If you're traveling overseas or in a remote area, you'll want a camera that operates on easily available batteries, such as standard AAAs. There's nothing worse than missing the shot of a lifetime because you've run out of batteries.Weight: If you're going to have to carry your camera on a backpacking trip or day trip with lots of walking, you'll start feeling its weight pretty quickly. Consider how much weight and space you want to give over to packing your photography equipment.
Simple framing would be doorways or windows. This creates a portal that takes the viewer into the world beyond, a suggestion of something being possible.
By being dark it adds drama, possibly danger, or suspense to your image. If it's bright beyond your subject, it lends a heavenly, divine sense to the subject.
The lighter the frame, the more delicate and happy the image will feel. It creates a desire in the viewer to go through the frame and join them, and be part of the joy. You create the emotional trick of the viewer joining the joy by the desire to go through the frame.
The frame can be in front or behind your subject and it does not even need to be complete for it to work as a frame. The mind completes things when it sees the suggestion of the shape. So a subject can be seen through a gap in a row of surfboards or, in the case of our winter, snow skis.
Here are some tricks to framing:
Don't skimp; pull back so you can see what the frame is.Keep it square. Frames usually have a geometric shape, so you have to be careful that the lines are level.You subject can "fill" the frame, or be small in the frame. Make the choice with purpose, each approach gives a different message to the viewer.In most cases the frame should not be so dark as to have no detail, or so bright it is washed out.Be creative. To be a frame you just need some space around the subject on the sides. You could "frame" a child by having them between adults but with some space so they are a little isolated and the adults are cropped out.The "frame" does not need to be in focus, conversely the subject does not need to be in focus (in this case the frame should be, though.)The "frame" can be artificial. You could hold up a fuzzy heart and shoot an embracing couple through it.
Once you get the hang of framing things you will be well on your way to creating powerful story telling images.
March 25, 2011
The definition of blogging is something that is very much in flux, as the new technologies that appear every day redefine what a blog is, what a blog can be, and what a blog should do. For many years, blogs were defined as text-based websites that kept records of days, similar to a captain's log on a sailing ship. However, this started to change as the group of people who kept blogs became more diverse. The more bloggers began to explore the limits of the medium and of the technology that made it possible, the more the boundaries of what could be called a "blog" expanded.
Today, there are an abundance of photo blogs, and there are even video blogs as well. Mobile blogging devices may well change the definition of blogging entirely by making it possible for bloggers to create new kinds of posts. Another element of the blogosphere that is starting to redefine blogging is the corporate blog. As more companies hire writers to keep blogs with the sole purpose of creating positive buzz about their brand, bloggers across the globe are arguing about whether these manufactured blogs are really worthy of the name.
Between all of these different forces that are constantly expanding and reshaping the blogosphere, it is difficult to imagine that the definition of what is and is not a blog will ever remain fixed for very long.
Alright, so everyone should be knowing the definition of blogging deeply, but , it's rely on you whether what kind of blog you want to create in the first place that might take a very long time to build a relationship between the readers and you yourself. So, guess what ? YOU CAN BE A PRO BLOGGER too ! And well, if you have idea on monetize your blog through your passion , I guess you can GO FOR IT and gain a lot of prospects and readers to your blog, I think what it called SENDING TRAFFIC TO YOUR BLOG limitlessly by specific keywords and targeted visitors. So,as you can see, it is a DOUBLE WIN situation , where you can share info , where you can earn yourself some profit. That's my own opinion , but for you , I hope might be the same , else if have any personal opinion , FEEL FREE TO SHARE.
Well , if I turned myself into many different kind of niche blogging market , that will be even nicer , that's gonna really really take time to research and develop my own method on this kind of thingy. As you can see , there are many different type of website such as loss weight, self improvement and then make money online program, marketing , IT, flowering and so on which give vital information to the viewers. Where I learned something , people who surf Internet is JUST FOR INFORMATION ! They are hungry crowds who need information to SOLVE THEIR PROBLEMS ! So, I tend to be take advantage on some of my favourite interest such as photography, photojournalism , health, IT, internet marketing , affiliate program and so on.
Since this site have some really really organic viewers , I might decided to turned this site upside down into something very very informative for the people who are passionate for something and NEED INFO about something. Yet, there are many things to research on professional blogging else like Google product that can helps me a lot on this. I guess there is a lot of gurus out there have the best info on this , right ?
March 10, 2011
Now it's great to see that the last mission flight of the Discovery Space Shuttle touched down after a successful 148 million miles or 237 million kilometers of flight journey from Earth to Space and back to Earth again. It's truly amazing but sadly this is the end of remarkable journey for the Discovery Space Shuttle as the space shuttle have ended the last mission after 26 years of services.
Discovery Space Shuttle , can be said as the world's most-flown space shuttle on the Earth than any other space shuttle in this world and now retired after its final voyage.
For your info, the last mission of the Discovery Space Shuttle is to deliver and install new compartment to the ISS ( International Space Station ) , complete with a humanoid robot.
NASA Admin. Charles Bolden is due to greet the astronauts from Discovery Space Shuttle at NASA's Kennedy Space Center and pay a final tribute to the Discovery Space Shuttle and its final mission to space before its officially closed the service.
For more info , check out the latest news through this link :
Discovery Space Shuttle ended its last service