Showing posts with label Photography. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Photography. Show all posts

November 02, 2011

Turn Photography Into a Business

The business of photography like any other business, takes planing, dedication, effort and many other things. With proper planing, research, marketing, dedication and effort you can make a decent living in photography. Is it difficult? The answer is: very difficult.

Not only do you have to run a business, but it largely depends on your skills as a photographer, the subject of your specialization, location, as well as other factors. Once you have decided, that your photo skills are complete, had your photos criticized by those who know, have a large inventory of photos (at least 1000), then you should consider how to market them or rather market yourself.

First of all, deciding on what photo genre will comprise the vast majority of your shots is paramount. Will you specialize in one type of subject: only weddings or only flowers. This approach has relatively a low flow of sales, but when the need arises for your specialty, then you're the one. More generalized photography guarantees a stronger sales flow, but requires a lot more effort also. However publications know that they can count on you for a variety of subjects.

Consider portrait photography, nature photography, photojournalism, and scientific photography. All have their challenges but all can be rewarding.

Portrait photography is relatively easy to enter, but requires a considerable up front expenditure. You will need reflective equipment, such as umbrellas, tripod, several backgrounds, props, a complete office, business cards, insurance, tax forms, should I go on?

Portraits subjects are however easy to find. Weddings, birthdays, baby showers, bachelor parties, reunions, births, pregnancy and glamour, boudoir, etc. You should also have several samples to display in your store front and to include in a marketing brochure, even if you have to take the photos free of charge. Nothing will sell you better than your photos. You can do without the office if you can set aside a room in your home to meet clients, do paperwork and work on the shots. As far as pricing, a simple research into your area's photographers will do the trick. Start reasonable and escalate as your reputation and demand grows.

Nature photography is quite well represented, but editors, publishers, publications are always looking for fresh material. Before you submit anything to any publication, ask in writing for a want list which is a list of the publication's most in demand subjects. Also consider creating a stock list of the subjects which you already have on file. Ask for a submissions guidelines and stick to them. Unsolicited material is often discarded, and if lucky, returned to you. Strongly consider writing an article to go with the photos, even better write an article and shoot around it. Publications are always in need of articles and ideas that align with their material.

Think small when starting. Newspapers, small local magazines, calendar companies, greeting cards companies, book publishers, poster makers, even product catalogs are purchasers of photographs. Inquire about submitting materials to them. Don't forget to label your contact information as copyright on any material which is finally submitted as well as to include captions with information about the photograph, such as location, name of the creature, flower, plant etc., scientific name, and technical information.

Submission to photographic stock houses. Many stock agencies require a minimum of photographs to even consider you, usually between 300 to 1000. But there are some that will require much less. In any event, whatever you submit must unequivocally be your best work. Very sharp, accurate exposure, top of the line, not just "slightly" out of focus, but 100% technically perfect.

You will receive the advantage of being represented to photo buyers, and the disadvantage of competition from many seeking exactly what you are. You should strive to make at least $2.00 per shot per year. So a submission of 30, 000 photos should gross you $60, 000 minus your costs the rest is profit. This requires that you shoot a large number of shots per month, at least 1000. Many agencies will also require exclusivity, especially if you begin to gain recognition for you work, so choosing which agency to represent you requires thought.

The idea is to gain recognition first before venturing into the major markets such as National Geographic, which by the way has their own staff of photographers, or Audubon Magazine.

Photojournalism. Many publications have their own staff, but regularly use the work of independent photographers. Look for ways of receiving updated news information of breaking news, look for planned events such as demonstrations, news conferences etc. Approach the editors desk of publications which you are interested in submitting your work to and register with them as a free lance photographer. Many will accept your registration and will look at your material with prior knowledge and since you don't get paid until your material is accepted it is easier for them just to register you. Do obtain a submission guidelines and acceptable formats as many prefer black & white formats. Consider joining a photojournalist association for important updates and leads.

Scientific photography. You will need very specialized material and the know how of the subjects you will be working with. keep in mind that bacterias, viruses and others can pose a health risk and many require a permit before you can get your hands on them. Approach publications the same way as you would approach any other photo publication.

As mentioned before, keep in mind your overhead costs, if your cost estimate calls for a $20, 000.00 per year in overhead, then you gross in sales should be $40, 000.00 per year.

Read plenty of photography magazines, look at current publications, posters, greeting cards, new books to get an idea of what is the trend. Good is also to enter contest whether you win or not, but get your name out there.


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October 31, 2011

Photography - Hip Shooting

Hip shooting, which was named after gun fighting, is a photographic style described as shooting photographs from waist level without using the viewfinder of the camera to centralize the subject. This is a learned technique and can be very hit or miss while you are learning it. However, once you have the skill mastered, you will usually have some amazing photographs. This method of photography is preferred by many photographers for the unique and varied artwork that can be constructed from the photographs.

There are several advantages to using this style of photography. Photographers that have learned how to do hip shooting have an advantage over other photographers because they are able to capture the natural side of their subject instead of having them posed. When the subject is a person, they may be very relaxed and natural when they think the photographer is not aiming the camera at them, and they become rigid, tense, and unnatural when the camera is raised to the photographer's eye. Hip shooting allows the capture of a natural, relaxed moment.

Another advantage of this style of photography is the speed at which you can take the photographs. Without taking the time to bring the camera up to the eye and focus, many more pictures can be taken in a shorter amount of time. This can be especially helpful when you are taking photographs at a sporting event or theatrical event where people are moving continually.

If you want to try hip shooting with your camera, you will first want to make sure that your camera is on auto focus. By having the camera on auto focus, it will make it easier for you to get a quality shot while using this method. You will also want to get as close as possible to your subject so that you are able to get the photograph that you are hoping for. A good way to practice hip shooting is to have your camera on and ready to go and go for a walk. While you are on your walk, snap as many photographs as you can without editing them, you will do that step when you return home.

Remember that shooting from the hip is a learned skill. It will take time to perfect it, but once you do, you will have some amazing photographs. This technique is very popular among street photographers as their subjects often do not know they are being photographed. Have fun with it and remember to take as many shots as you can because for every fifty shots that you take, you may only get one or two usable shots.


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October 29, 2011

Photography Tips - Understanding Aperture Settings

Most tips relating to exposure advocate the use of the aperture priority mode, and with good reason. The Aperture Priority Mode allows you to control the shutter speed through the aperture settings, which are responsible for crucial picture dynamics that include depth of field, motion blur and freezing action.

Understanding how the aperture and aperture priority work, will help you as a photographer gain control over exposure and these critical picture dynamics.

Setting the camera mode dial to aperture priority puts the camera into a semi automatic mode, which means that you will have to take care of other crucial setting such as white balance, metering and ISO. In this mode the shutter automatically changes to compensate for the different aperture settings.

Aperture and F-Numbers
The aperture is basically a hole behind the lens which allows the light to pass through the lens to the image sensor located within the body of the DSLR. The aperture uses numbers (F-Stops) corresponding to the different sizes of the aperture (or hole if you like).

The F-Stop is derived from the mathematical relationship between the aperture diameter and the focal length of the lens.

Typical ranges
A typical range of F-Numbers or F-Stops is:
F 3.5, F4, F4.5, F5, F5.6, F6.3, F7.1, F8, F9, F10, F11, F13, F14, F16, F18, F20, F22

These numbers are the range available when using the 18-105mm AF-S NIKKOR lens, with the lens set to 18mm.When set to the other extreme of the lens (105mm) the F-Stop range changes from F5.6 to F36, and so it will change for each focal length. For example at 50mm the range will be from F5 to F32.

The increment value between F-Stops can be changed on many DSLR cameras. Typically the light is halved or doubled for each F-Stop increment.

Picture dynamics
So what's the big deal about using Aperture Priority? In most cases the beginner accepts the exposure set by the camera's choice of shutter and aperture combinations. This still gives a good picture, but does not take into account the look of the picture in terms of depth of field, movement and frozen frames. The aperture setting can be used to control all these dynamics.

Given factors
A wide Aperture (small F-Number):
- Narrow depth of field
- Fast shutter speed

A small aperture (High F-Number)
- Wide depth of field
- Slow shutter speed

Taking into account the factors above one can see how the three picture dynamics can be controlled.

- Depth of field. This is the area in front and behind the subject that is in focus. A small F-Number results in a very narrow depth of field, so the background and often the foreground is out of focus. This is great for portrait photography where the attention is focused on the subject. Because the shutter speed is normally high in this mode it is easier to shoot without blurring the picture.

- Movement through blur. Using a high f-number will force a slow shutter speed when the camera is set to aperture priority. This is great when you want your picture to show movement. A typical scenario is when shooting a waterfall. The water is blurred through movement while the rest of the picture remains sharp. A tripod is essential for this type of shot. The camera can be panned swiftly to follow a moving subject, keeping the subject sharp but blurring the background.

- Freezing the subject. This of course depends on the shot you are attempting. Anytime you want to avoid blurry pictures, a faster shutter will become your best friend. The snag here is that the higher the shutter speed you use the more light you will need. A high F-Number will give a fast shutter speed when in aperture priority mode.

When you need a really fast shutter, keep an eye on the warning light in your viewfinder which indicates the shutter speed is cutting off too much light and the aperture range for that lens has been exceeded. This is a common problem.

A good example is when photographing birds. The best time of day to shoot is often when the light is low. A necessary compromise in these poor lighting conditions is to increase the ISO. Why compromise? Well too high an ISO introduces noise into the picture, influenced largely by the quality of camera model. This can be a nuisance when enlarging photos in post production.

Increasing the ISO increases the shutter speed, so one need to make a choice between capturing a great photo that is hard to repeat, or risk introducing noise.

Practice
Practice in manual mode and play with the shutter, aperture and ISO. Some cameras offer an anti blur feature which in essence is automatically creating the fastest shutter speed with the right combinations of the three (aperture, shutter and ISO).

Next time you are photographing the kids indoors, try getting the fastest shutter speed before resorting to your flash, which sometimes is the only way to avoid blurry shots.

Flexible solution
In summary, aperture priority mode offers the most flexible exposure control when striving to create certain picture dynamics on demand. Experience will teach you when to use another mode such as Shutter Priority, Program Mode or Manual. The ultimate goal is to go manual and take full control of exposure and other features.

Rob Gray is a media practitioner mainly in the field of video and photography. Rob is involved with training, production and consultation. Rob worked for the South African Broadcasting Corporation (SABC) in both radio and television.

Rob's new web site offers free tips on photography and video production. Also see the news window available to all.

Check out all the training pages and services. These include Digital Photography, Photoshop and Video Production.

Also watch out for mini workshops in photography and Photoshop, which are available to purchase on DVD.

Visit http://www.facetmedia.co.za/ and see the blog issues for more on aperture

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Rob_PC_Gray


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October 27, 2011

The 3 Things You Should Do When Shooting Macro Photography

If you're looking to improve your macro photography, then you should do these three things to get the best results from your photography. First, you need to keep everything steady. Second, you need to turn off any kind of image stabilization on your lens. And last, but not least, you need to be patient. After reading this article, you should be able to get sharp picture from your macro photography.

One thing that you always need to keep in mind when shooting macro is to keep everything steady. One thing that I always do when shooting macro is to use a tripod. In addition, I always use a cable release to further minimize the camera shake. And lastly, just before I press the shutter button, I always hold my breath as the tiniest breath of air can make my picture blurry.

Next, you'll want to turn off the Image Stabilization feature on your lens. If your macro lens does not have this feature then you don't need to worry about it. You want to turn off the image stabilization feature because that feature will keep looking for any kind of vibration, even if there is none. This will make your picture look less sharp. In some camera model, such as Nikon or Canon, the image stabilization can be turned off via the lens. On some camera model, the image stabilization can be turned off via the menu function on the camera body. You'll need to consult your camera manual to do this task.

Lastly, you'll need to be patient, sometimes very patient. All the best macro photographers that I know have tremendous amount of patience. This is very important to keep in mind because there are just something that you cannot control such as the weather, wind blowing to your subject, and many more things that can break your shot. When this happen, just be patient! Keep on trying and keep on shooting! Work hard, get lucky! You can also try experimenting with different angle with your shot if one angle does not work.

Let's summarize what you have learned in this article. You have learned to keep everything steady to get a sharp macro shot, you'll need to turn off the image stabilization feature on your lens to make it even sharper and you have learned the value of being patient when shooting macro. With this 3 tips, you should be able to get a better macro shots. Good luck with your macro photography journey and happy shooting!


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October 26, 2011

5 Wedding Photography Tips You Must Know About

One of the easiest ways to learn anything is to just do it. When you make mistakes you learn from them. When it comes to wedding photography you really don't want to make many mistakes. Hopefully by the end of this article I will have provided you enough quality information for you to take better photos at your next wedding.

Wedding photography is unlike most types of photography in that you only have one chance to capture a shot, there's no retakes once a shot is gone you will never be able to recapture that moment. So if you want a happy bride and groom, less stress and more money in your bank account then keep on reading because these handy tips will save your butt when it comes to shooting weddings.

1. Create a shot list

If you're just starting out then a shot list is vital. Having a shot list will allow you to make sure that no shots have been missed. If you start shooting weddings on a regular basis then chances are that you won't need a shot list after a while but I believe it's always handy to have one as backup. Some of the shots I recommend taking include:

The wedding dress hanging up/leaning over a chairThe brides dress getting done upBrides garterBride getting hair done/looking in the mirrorBride/bridesmaids having makeup put onGroom tying his tieGroom hugging parentsParents/best man straitening grooms tieBride and father arriving at ceremonyFamily members being seatedBridesmaids walking down the aisleGroom waiting/checking his watchGroom seeing bride for the first timeBride before making her entranceFather and bride walking down the aisleThe back of the father and bride walking down the aisle (if you have a second photographer)Close up of bride and groom exchanging vowsClose up of the rings going onto handsThe first kiss as married coupleWalking up the aisle as a married coupleBride and groom outside the locationFamily throwing confetti at bride and groom

After the ceremony you will usually get a chance to get the bride and groom along with the bridesmaids and groomsmen to pose for some photos. I said usually because I have shot wedding where couples didn't want these types of shots. You will find the majority of couples expect these photos however and personally these types of photos I enjoy taking. Here is a shot list of some of the posed photos you should take.

Full length bride shotBride and maid of honour (3/4 and full length shots)The bride with all of the bridesmaidsThe bride and her parentsGroom with parentsBride and groomBride and groom with each set of parentsGroom with his best manGroom with bridesmaidsBride with groomsmenBride and groom with bridesmaidsBride and groom with groomsmenBride, groom, bridesmaids and groomsmen

One tip I would give you when shooting big groups is that you have to take control. One of the first weddings I ever shot I had people not paying any attention to me and looking in different directions. When I realised this I quickly took control and specifically asked everyone behind me with their digital cameras to stop taking photographs until I had taken mine and then I would hold the group together for a few seconds so everyone with their digital cameras could come in and take their photos. It worked and I had no problem with people looking in the wrong direction.

Another tip I would give you is to ask everyone to first look at your camera and then close their eyes. Then ask them to open their eyes on the count of 3. When they open their eyes ask them to find your camera lens with their eyes as quickly as possible. I would then recommend taking a burst of shots. This will help minimise the chance of anyone having their eyes closed.

One final tip when dealing with group shots is to say "can everyone see the camera", then follow that line with "if you can't see the camera it can't see you". This will make sure no one's head is being covered by another guests.

Once you have moved past taking the group shots you will want to start taking photos at the wedding reception. The following is a shot list I would recommend capturing:

The outside of the reception siteCandid photos of guests outside the receptionThe bride and groom arriving at the receptionThe bride and groom laughing and joking with guestsInside of the reception before guests arriveLittle details on the table such as patterns or decorationsGuests names on cards at tableThe wedding cake (multiple shots and angles)The first danceParents dancingCutting of the cakeToasts/speechesThe throwing of the bouquetBride and groom leaving

Having a set list will help you make sure that you don't miss a thing, however don't rely on them too much as you may miss some spontaneous shots. I would also recommend sending the set list to the bride and groom before hand to see if there are any additional shots they would like.

2. Having the right equipment

Now I'm sure the best photographers in the world could produce stunning images with point and shoot digital cameras, however unfortunately I'm not the best photographer in the world and have no shame in admitting it. I do however book more than enough weddings every year to earn a living from it. Having the right equipment will make your job as a wedding photographer much easier.

Wedding photography can be expensive to get into, however you can pay off your initial investment and turn a profit by just shooting one or two weddings.

I recommend at least two camera bodies and at least two lenses at a minimum. The reason for this is that in a wedding setting you don't have any time to change lenses. So for this reason I recommend using camera lenses that cover a wide range of focal lengths. If you're a Canon photographer I recommend the following two lenses as must haves:

Canon 24-70mm f2.8 Luxury Lens (Medium Range Lens)

Canon 70-200mm f2.8 II IS Lens (Telephoto Lens)

You may also want a lens such as the Canon 17-40mm F4 L lens for wide angled group shots.

If you're a Nikon or Sony photographer then look out for similar lenses.

3. Use Flash

Now when your outdoors there may be a temptation just to use natural lighting and there's nothing wrong with this at all. However simply adding a little flash will do wonders for your images. Having a flash to give a little fill light will give you nice catch lights in the eyes and will get rid of any nasty shadows cast on the face from sunlight.

Once again if you're a canon shooter I would recommend owning at least 2-3 flashes with wireless triggers. The following flashes are what I use at weddings:

Canon 430 EX II Speedlite

Canon 580 EX II Speedlite

I also wouldn't leave my home without a Gary Fong diffuser. This little accessory attaches to the top of your flash gun and makes the light less harsh, giving your images a much softer and natural feel.

4. Stick to the bride like glue

OK perhaps not like glue but you get the idea. Where ever the bride goes you must follow her and keep eyes on her at all times. Now you may be thinking what about the groom, the truth is you want to include the groom as much as possible but in reality all eyes are on the Bride. People want to see her hair, her flowers, her makeup and anything else you can imagine. The bride is the centre of the attention on her wedding day so make sure your photos reflect it.

5. Make sure you have backups

Thankfully I have never had any of my equipment fail on me, however if it did I have equipment ready to back it up. For this reason I carry two camera bodies, 3-4 lenses, multiple batteries, multiple memory cards and 3 Speedlites.

If something did go wrong you wouldn't want to be in a position where you couldn't shoot the wedding. Be prepared and you will do fine.

Conclusion

I believe it takes a special type of person to become a wedding photographer as wedding photography isn't for the faint of heart. Wedding photography can be stressful but I believe if you're prepared then you can take a lot of the stress out of the situation.

Things will go wrong when you're shooting a wedding. If you stay calm and composed however there is no reason as to why you can't handle any situation thrown at you.

Most importantly enjoy the experience. Quite often guests and family members will take care of a photographer who has been respectful and courteous. I personally love the pressure put on me to get good shots in a wedding and I think because of this my wedding photography work improves each and every time I photograph different weddings.


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October 25, 2011

The Image Makers And Photography

Photography is a fascinating art. It expresses the cultural and social values and promotes the culture of the people of a country. It also helps in introducing the way of living and their style to the modern world. It preserves the culture of the people of a country.

Photography is a fascinating world. Photographs are full of colors and life. Photography is the art or process of taking photographs.

The digital age has arrived and taken over the world of photography. The old fashioned way of taking photographs has been vanished. In days gone by, photography was not an art but a craft used primarily to capture faces and portraits of subject seated primly and stiffly in front of lavish backdrops that were supposed to look artificial as their poses.

Photographs, or, rather, portrait photography, was then a serious business and not just for those posing but also for those behind the cumbersome and unwieldy cameras that required equally huge flashlights. Images were then stored on negatives and not on computer chips. Touching entailed working on negative and positive forms of film and color was added by hand. The traditional may not have been recognized as artists but they truly were-the proof of this lies in the flourish with which they added color to black and white world they captured and knowing eye with which they picked the right tints and hues to use.

But this pain staking craft has all but died out. Images are now stored on machines and touched up in photo shop and this has sounded the death knell for the whole world of photography. Even the act of taking a passport photograph, portraiture in its own way is no longer required.

Photographs try to capture a world that after some time become the part of history and helps to remember the image makers and people who are gone away.

Indeed as critic John Berger once said:

"All photographs are there to remind us of what we forget."

Photographs is used to express the social and cultural life of people of a country. It as also used to capture the culture, cultural values, festivals and beauty of some specific regions like Kalash Valley and Cholistan desert etc, of Pakistan. It helps in introducing the ancient cultures to the modern world. Photography preserves the culture history and art of the people.

As the culture and history are the heritage of a country so it should be introduced to the modern world. Photography familiarizes people with our ancestors heritage.

Hence, photography is a very realistic art and gives life to photographs.

According to Elliott Erwitt:

"To me, photography is an art of observation. It's about finding something interesting in an ordinary place... I have to found it has little to do with the things you see and everything to do with the way you see them".


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October 23, 2011

Five Reasons to Use Photography for Gift Giving

Personalization. In my opinion the first and biggest reason to use photographic gifts is the personalization that it affords the giver. I'm not talking about just giving someone a photographic portrait of yourself, although that is an excellent and very personalized gift. How about giving that special person a coffee mug or t-shirt that has their favorite (or yours) on it? The idea is to give them something that is as useful as it is artistic.


Exclusivity. By using a photograph that you have made yourself or that you have purchased from an outside source, you are offering the recipient of the gift something that can't be bought at a department store or, for that matter, even at a jewelry shop.


Individualality. With the artistry of the photographic image, you can tailor a suitable gift for anyone on your gift list. Do you have a friend or relative that likes to cook? Give them an apron with a photograph of a cake they've made. Have a person on your list that likes dogs or cats? Give them a coffee mug with a photograph of a favorite animal. Is one of your special people a nature or outdoors lover? Give them a framed print of an especially favorite scene or panorama.


Decorative. Imagine how good you'll feel when you visit someone that you sent a photographic greeting card to and they have it displayed on their desk when you arrive. Think of how good you would feel when you are complimented on your "good taste" in art.


Useful. Photography as "art" is a given, but you can use that art to create gifts that are useful as well as attractive. Consider giving a grandmother an attractive refrigerator magnet with a portrait of the grandkids on it or a favorite pet displayed there. Give your children a t-shirt that has a favorite scene displayed on it. Do you know someone that is a bird watcher? Give them a coffee mug with a photograph of a Northern Cardinal on the cup.


These are just a few suggestions on how you can use your (or someone else's) photographic talent to create gifts that are sure to be treasured by the person that received them.


The list of possibilities for photographic gifts grows constantly as new uses for our artistic talents expand. I have already mentioned a few items that may be created but here are a few more in case you need help. Do you know someone that is a card player? Give them a deck of playing cards with scenes from a vacation they (or you) especially enjoyed. How about giving your favorite cook an apron with a picture of one of their specialties on the front of the apron? There are an awful lot of people that enjoy assembling jigsaws and one of your favorite photos might be just the thing for them. How about a beautiful nature scene that you admire? Have a photograph of the scene printed on canvas and frame it for display in your living room for everyone else to appreciate as well.


My name is Alan Chin and I am a professional photographer specializing in photojournalism and event photography. Visit http://www.facebook.com/alanchinwenglon to see examples of my work. If you would like to order prints or photographic giftware follow the links on the gallery pages where you can purchase many of the items I have listed in this article.

5 Ways an Assistant Will Improve Your Photography

As an amateur photographer have you ever been guilty of watching a professional and saying "I really don't see a big difference between her and I."? I can guarantee almost all professionals have a secret weapon you don't: an assistant, or even better- several assistants. Assistants are a huge piece of professional photography.

Face it, if you ever plan to lead a portrait photoshoot of any kind, your work will improve if you add an assistant. The best part is, they aren't that hard to find. The even better part is if you are willing to do a little coaching you can even teach a friend or relative to help you in a bind. At some time or another, pretty much anyone in my family or close friend of mine has worked as my assistant at one time or another. Here are 5 ways your photography will immediately improve with the addition of an assistant:

(1) Not every piece of equipment fits conveniently on a light stand: Your assistant is the most portable and versatile light stand you can have. I almost always ask my assistant to hold reflectors, and even stand on a chair to hold a flash. If you can't squeeze a light stand in a space, I guarantee you can squeeze an assistant in there.

(2) You need someone to manage people outside of the photo: Especially important at weddings. At weddings my assistants know to not allow people behind me to pull out point and shoot cameras and snap away at the same time. Any time there are people present outside of your model these people can become distracting. My assistants do a great job managing these outside distractions. And with groups someone always wanders off. My assistants know to keep track of key people and if someone is missing, they run them down while I make sure everyone else stays put.

(3) The Details: My assistants do a great job looking at the small things in the picture, the details I may forget to look at. When I'm composing a shot I am focused on the lighting and overall image, and my assistants watch for the small things: the hands, feet, clothing out of place, etc. Most of the time these things are handled with the overall image, but that one or two times during a photoshoot when I overlook something my assistants help keep an eye on the details.

(4) An assistant of the opposite sex will see things you won't: Seriously. I like my assistants to be female because they notice things I am not programmed to notice. As a man, I am not programmed to notice hair out of place, or a dress slightly out of place, or unattractive shoes that need to be hidden, and all of the other fashion and hair faux pa's that are so common. I only notice the major no-no's like the fanny pack or the socks with Tevas, and the occasional pair of Crocs. The same goes for female photographers - a male assistant will be a great help making sure your male models appear masculine and strong.

(5) The invaluable role of a second person: Having a second person on your side can be invaluable, whether it is an awkward social situation where you need your assistant to distract and divert the weird uncle, or if you need your assistant to help calm down a bridezilla situation, or when you forget something (and at some point you will forget something) your assistant plays a major role in filling in the gaps you could not possibly handle on your own. Even if you just have your assistant carry your equipment around, this saves you the time and energy and allows you to focus more on composing your shot and dialing in your lighting.


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October 22, 2011

Ten Top Tips For Getting Started With Time Lapse Photography

If you're a keen amateur photographer or even a pro and want to have a go at time-lapse photography and time lapse film making, I've listed some top tips to help you get started. Don't think you'll be able to do what the time-lapse movie specialists do and time lapse in all sorts of challenging conditions for long periods of time. That takes very special know-how and equipment. However, for simpler applications, and just to get you started, I'm going to give you ten top tips. Here goes...

1. If you have a camera with a built in intervalometer (timer) that's great. If not, you'll need to go shopping to buy an intervalometer. They are more commonly called 'remote control triggers' nowadays. But just make sure they have an 'intervalometer' function; that is a function that allows you to set up to take images at pre-set intervals. There's no use me recommending any intervalometers or remote devises here - as it really depends on what camera you have. But a bit of web research should give you some ideas of which one may be best for you. Before you get started properly, get to know the intervalometer and what it can do.

2. Timing is all-important. Like a good comedian, a good time lapse photographer must get his/her timing right! The most common error for all time-lapse newbie's is setting unrealistic intervals between exposures. If the intervals are too long, you wont have sufficient frames to do an edit. It is better in some ways if you have too many (as you can always 'lose' some). But just be aware that too many may mean your camera having problems with processing. Plus, you don't necessarily want to work the shutter on your camera too much! Setting the interval time between exposures is something that will come with practice and experience. You end up getting an instinct for it. But, a few things to bear in mind to help you are to A) think how long you want the time lapse sequence to last, and B) hold in mind that your edit will be sequenced at around 25fps (frames per second). Think! You'll have to get 25 exposures / frames for 1 second of sequence. Someone once asked us to take 4 frames over 24 hours for a week and edit a time-lapse sequence for them.......until we pointed out that the 'sequence' would only run for a fraction over 1 second!

3. Camera settings are important, and these all depend on the type of time-lapse you do and the various factors involved. It can get quite complex. But, to get started, just set the camera on AV (aperture value), set your f-stop modestly to around 4 and just a few hundred on your ISO (we don't want noisy images). This should give you a nice balance between controlling your camera and letting your camera decide some things for itself.

4. Get a tripod. It may sound obvious. But we've seen people trying to do time lapse by perching a camera precariously somewhere where it can easily be knocked. Remember, time-lapse photography and film-making only works by getting images that are captured from exactly the same fixed position. If you see a sequence edited together from frames that are different - because of camera movement - you'll see the whole sequence shaking and wobbling! No good! A tripod, locked into position will give your camera a nice stable platform.

5. Get a decent size memory card. It may sound obvious again, but it's another common error. As the proverb says, 'You have to cut your cloth according to your coat'. Take a test image. What is the file size that the image is coming in at? Now multiply this by the number of images you'll be taking. Is your card big enough? No? Then you'll need to do either the following OR a combination of the following: a) get a bigger card b) reduce the file size (quality) of your captures c) do a card-swap at necessary intervals (taking care not to knock your camera). The real experts may output to an external storage device.... They may insist on bringing their images in HD (high definition) and creating HD time lapse movies.... but I'm trying to keep things simple for you here!

6. Be aware of power issues. Again, if you are time-lapsing using a camera with a single battery, you'll need to be aware that it will run out relatively quickly. You'll know how quickly if you know your camera. To solve, you can use a battery grip to extend the time you have, or even better, get an ac adaptor and plug your camera into the mains!

7. Do indoor projects first. You can control your environment and the lighting this way. Outdoors, you potentially face greater challenges; the weather, changes in light, away from power sources and so on. We know people who have wrecked very expensive DSLRs by leaving them unprotected out and not noticing its been raining!

8. Stick to things that wont take too long to capture at first. What about an ice cube melting, for a really short time lapse? Then, as you become more ambitious and experienced, you could always progress to cress seeds growing or an indoor potted flower opening. A simple favorite is to deprive an indoor plant of water for a while, then water it and time-lapse its recovery! Another great one is to place a white flower in water, add food colouring to the water and time lapse the nice effect of the colour climbing up the flower as it drinks....

9. You have all your images. It's time for the edit. What? You can't edit? Well that's fine. Although again, the experts put their images through a number of processes in post production - we are keeping things simple. And what surprises most people is that there is a simple way to edit. It wont be anywhere near as good as what the experts do - in fact the experts wouldn't really call it editing strictly. However, it works for our purposes. The secret is throwing your images into one of the applications that just auto-sequence them together. I can't mention any of them here...but do your research.

10. I said there were ten tips..... so here is the tenth. Get your work out there, share it. Look at what others have done, join a forum, swap tips, practice, and above all...have fun getting started with time lapse photography.


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October 20, 2011

Photography Tips for Honeymooners

Isn't it great that after your special day you get to go on a great holiday? Even better, you know when you get back you will have your wedding photographs ready for that first draft viewing? Even better, you will have loads and loads of great honeymoon photographs. Won't you? Well, the usual answer to the last question is..erm...possibly! In this short article I am going to share with you some of the secrets to taking real photographs, not just holiday snaps!

Tip 1 -Think about Composition - don't just point and shoot.

This sounds simple but is really a great tip. Think about the photograph your taking. What is the subject, what is behind the subject? We have all seen photos of people with things sticking out of their heads!
Make sure the background is interesting for Tip 2...

Tip 2 - The Rule of Thirds

This is a great rule used by professional photographers the world over. When you're looking at the back of your point and shoot or DSLR imagine the screen has lines on it that split the view into thirds.
Place you main subject where the lines intersect and you are generally onto a winner. Make sure you follow Tip 1 to get some interesting background!

(Rough stone walls, tree bark or landscape / seascapes are all interesting backgrounds by the way.)

Tip 3 - Get your self a little tripod or beanbag!

These are great if you want to take that all-important shot with both of you in the photograph and there is no one around to take it for you. A beanbag is really cheap and you only need a very small one. The tripod is a little more expensive and the best of the small bunch are the Gorilla Pods that can be wrapped around anything.

Tip 4 - if you can afford it invest in a cheap DSLR

You don't need to spend a fortune to get a really great camera that will give you so much more scope for your honeymoon photographs and provide you with an introduction to an addictive hobby - photography! Anything more than around ?450 including a standard lens is too much money, unless you're buying from e-Bay. (and if you do make sure the camera isn't't damaged!) Obviously if you can afford it you can pay a fortune - but save your money for those honeymoon treats!

Thanks
Andrew Miller


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October 18, 2011

Bird Photography on Your Southern African Safari

If you are a bird photographer then a southern African safari has much to offer you, not only in the prime summer months, but also in the winter months!

Here we discuss our birding experiences in four of southern Africa's most famous game reserves to help you choose your destination.

Kruger National Park
The Kruger Park's diverse range of habitats is responsible for a bird list of over 550 bird species, while the availability of food in these habitats ensures that many species occur in abundance.

The Park is especially good for large raptors which are rare sightings outside of large conservation areas, while many other scarce and migrant species are attracted to the Kruger's unspoilt wilderness.

Birding is good throughout the Kruger but the far north tends to be the most productive bird photography area. One of the best-known birding hotspots in the north is the Pafuri picnic site where you could find a whole lot of 'specials' that are not found in the rest of the park.

Commonly seen Pafuri specials include Lemon-breasted Canary, Wattle-eyed flycatcher, Yellow White-eye, Greyheaded Parrot, Mottled Spinetail, Crested Guinea-fowl and African Finfoot. Less common but occasionally seen, are Dickinson's Kestrel, Thickbilled Cuckoo, Pel's Fishing Owl, Goldenbacked Pytilia, Rackettailed Roller, Whitebacked Night Heron, Narina Trogon and Yellowspotted Nicator.

These specials should be looked for all along the Luvuvhu river and not just at the picnic site. This Pafuri area has such good bird specials because it is close to the Mozambique coast and the Limpopo River, which acts as a migration corridor for birds that are normally found further to the north and east.

The bridge over the Luvuvhu River and Crook's Corner can be particularly rewarding with sightings of the rare Pel's Fishing Owl.

The other sixteen Picnic sites are also worth walking around as the birds are used to humans and allow you to get close to them.

There are eleven bird hides located throughout the park of which we have found Lake Panic hide near Skukuza camp and Sweni hide near Satara camp to provide the best bird photography opportunities.

All the main camps and bushveld camps are excellent for birding - some cottages have bird baths in front of them, which attracts many different birds while at night you should look for the resident owls and nightjars!

Whether you are driving along the roads or sitting at your bungalow, you will have the opportunity to see and photograph hundreds of different birds, some of the more common ones being Rollers, Drongos, Storks, Starlings, Doves, Guinea-fowl, Francolins, Hornbills, Bee-eaters, Kingfishers, Swallows, Vultures, Eagles and Owls.

Pilanesberg Game Reserve
The Pilanesberg is good for birding with over 350 species being recorded. When we first started visiting the Pilanesberg we used to see raptors but during the last few years eagle and vulture sightings have been very scarce. The park is, however, superb for its water birds.

There are a few bird hides that have been constructed on the edges of waterholes and dams that provide excellent game and bird photography opportunities.

Lake Mankwe, for example, is a prime spot where you can photograph Kingfishers (Malachite, Giant, Pied), Cormorants, Spoonbills, Herons, Fish Eagles, Osprey and a host of other water bird species. The lake is large so you are able to photograph birds in flight as they fly from the shore to land on the dead trees in front of the hide.

Birding is also very good in the camps where you stand a better chance of seeing some birds, such as the Crimson-breasted Shrike.

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
Even though the Kgalagadi offers a wide range of birds (over 280 bird species have been recorded) it is most well-known for its birds of prey.

There are three main birding environments in the park; the dune roads, the Nossob and Auob riverbeds, and the three main camps. Most bird species are found throughout the park but some tend to be more common in one of these three environments.

Check the trees in the three main camps for owls and other bush-veld species. Most of our raptor sightings have been at the waterholes along the Auob and Nossob river roads.

Even if you are staying at one of the wilderness camps you should also be rewarded with good bird sightings, depending on which camp you are at. We have seen Secretary Birds, Martial Eagles, Lanner Falcons, Goshawks, Sand-grouse and Owls from our dune cabins at the wilderness camps.

Etosha National Park
Bird photography in Etosha can be good in winter but is best in the summer months from when the rains start, normally October, until April. Over 412 bird species have been recorded in Etosha.

Namutoni - The waterhole is not great for mammals but it can produce some good bird sightings including Caspian Plover, Red-billed Queleas and Greater Painted-snipe.

In camp keep a look-out for the Palm Swift, Sunbirds, Starlings, Barn Owls and Red-faced Mouse-birds. Fisher's pan, which is just behind the camp, can produce some nice summer migrants such as Black-necked Grebe, Lesser and Greater Flamingos, Yellow-billed Stork, African Openbill, and Saddle-billed Stork.

Halali - This camp is our favorite for birds. you may see Bare-cheeked Babblers, Violet Wood-hoopoes, Carp's Tit, Southern Yellow-billed Hornbills and Southern White-faced Scops Owls - all in camp.

At the Moringa waterhole we have seen Doves, Pygmy Falcons, Fork-tailed Drongos and at sunset huge flocks of Namaqua Sandgrouse with Owls later in the night.

Okaukuejo - In camp there is a Sociable Weaver nest in a tree right at the waterhole wall and the Weavers will keep you entertained for hours. You can see many birds either at the waterhole or in the camp.

By day keep a lookout for Namaqua Sandgrouse, Red-billed Queleas, Lanner Falcons, Gabar Goshawks, Red-billed Teals, Southern Pied Babblers, Crimson-breasted Shrikes, Violet-eared Waxbills, African Hoopoe, Groundscraper Thrush, Dusky Sunbirds, Acacia Pied Barbets, Golden-tailed Woodpeckers, and large flocks of Double-banded Sandgrouse.

At night watch for Pearl-spotted Owlets, Verreaux's Eagle-owls, Barn owls, and Rufous-cheeked Nightjars

Bird Photography Gear
Photographic equipment for bird photography is virtually the same as what is needed for wildlife photography - long lenses, good support in terms of tripods, bean bags, and gimbal heads, plus good long-lens technique to ensure sharp photographs of birds in flight. We use the Nikon 80-400mm VR zoom lens plus the Nikon 600mm f4 (non-VR) lens for our bird photography. You could also use a 300mm f2.8 or 300mm f4 plus a tele-converter to get good results.


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October 17, 2011

The Love of Wedding Photography and How to Choose Your Photographer Wisely

I've been a photographer for quite some time now and I strongly believe there is something about wedding photography that just captures its audience, no matter how old or young, how in or out of love they are at the time or how biased they are to the subjects in the actual photo.

I can look at wedding photography for hours - just admiring the magic of it all. The look in their eyes, the stolen glances across the church aisle caught just at the right moment, the love it brings into a room full of otherwise acquaintances or strangers alike. Yes, it's a beautiful time. But, how do you know which photographer is going to capture your moments just perfectly for you?

The style of photography is something one should consider carefully before choosing who they wish to hire. Don't be scared to have a meeting with the photographer and ask to see numerous photos they have taken to get an idea of what they can offer you and what you are more than likely going to end up with. It's one thing to have a handful of brilliant photos to email out to potential clients, but you should ask to see a range of photos - black and white, colour, sepia, panoramic and not just wedding shots (if they have them)... all these things will give you an idea of their "eye". An eye for detail is something not everyone is born with, and unfortunately, some photographers get out there with their list of what they need to capture on the day, without a sideways glance of what else is going on around them. Some of the most stunning photos are the ones of flowergirls hiking up their skirts to stamp in some mud or grandma's wiping away a tear at the sight of their beloved grandson or daughter getting married. These images can go uncaptured if your photographer doesn't think outside the box.

Also, make sure you decide on your budget but be reasonably flexible - you often get what you pay for. Don't think you can hire someone on the day for $400 off Gumtree and expect them to produce the same amazing images that a professional photographer will give you. There is a reason why wedding photography can be so expensive. It takes hours of work on the day and then triple the hours work editing and making sure each individual image is absolutely perfect. It's your one day that you can never redo again if your photographer isn't experienced enough to know what to expect and how to conduct themselves. Not any photographer can be a wedding photographer!

Make sure you get along with the person who will actually be taking your photos! Don't book through a large photographic company only to have someone rock up on the day that you've never met and clash with. It will ruin your day if you're fuming over them bossing you around like Hitler holding a camera.

If you can, see if you can get your images on CD in high resolution - it's something most photographers don't offer - but it's well worth it to get it and it will save you a LOT of money in the long run. All family members will be able to get prints, you can use the images on Facebook or on your thank-you cards, you can print your own images on a canvas for your lounge room or have a coffee table book made up to thank the bridal party for their efforts... but if you don't have the rights to your own photos, this will all be VERY costly.

Lastly, be relaxed enough to go with the flow - if you're uptight on your day, it will show in your photos. :)

Good luck choosing and all the best for your big day!

I run my own wedding photography business in Perth, Western Australia. I have been a photographer for quite a few years and love capturing weddings, family portraits and newborn babies. As a portraits and wedding photographer I have come to love interacting with families and capturing their ways together - it's a special job that I still am very passionate about.

Check out my website and gallery at http://www.firstmemoriesportraits.com/

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Moira_Nell

Moira Nell - EzineArticles Expert Author

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October 14, 2011

Packshot Photography - Getting Your Teeth Into Primal Instincts

If you needed any persuading as to the value and importance of packshot photography then it's important to look back a little in time. No, further than that. Quite a bit further - several thousand years in fact. Because to appreciate how we operate, react, respond and view the world today we need to look back at our history and development over the last few thousand years.

If you took a human from about 10,000 years ago and placed them in today's society then they pretty much would fit in, assuming you could teach them from an early age. We really haven't evolved much in many thousands of years, and we still carry about our primal instincts and our way of responding to the world around us.

A good packshot photographer knows that a catalogue photo, for all its glossy sleek appearance, is at its heart designed to target our most primal instincts, our base responses and to elicit that reaction from us which will inevitably result in our carrying a slightly lighter wallet around with us. Our world today is so full of text, sound, words and technology that it's easy to forget that all of this is still relatively new - even speech. Certainly our grasp of a written language is very recent indeed, and it was only a few generations ago that it would have been considered most unusual to be able to read and write.

We are, essentially, a predator, and as such our most keen sense is that of sight. Our ancestors would use sight to scan the forest or the plain, to identify quickly any potential threats, and any potential prey. We learned to use visual clues very quickly in order to make snap judgments, and quick decisions. Visual awareness was essential to stay alive.

Today we don't so much rely upon our sense of sight to watch for prey, since we can have frozen food delivered to our door, and as far as threats are concerned, there's relatively little chance of bumping into a mountain lion in Kettering town centre. However, we still retain those same instincts which saw us survive in the jungles and plains of Africa so many thousands of years ago. Today our visual acuity and our ability to respond without even thinking about it to visual clues is as strong as ever. Good packshot photography can take full advantage of this.

If you want to reach into someone's soul, you have to do it through the eyes. Words can only ever achieve so much, and are mere mathematics for the brain - they have to travel much further to reach the soul. A good catalogue photo needs to bypass logic and numbers, words and insurance options, and just reach out to the inner person and make them want it, feel they need it, and start to respond and react to it in a positive way even without thinking.

Because that's the thing with packshot photography - a good catalogue photo makes you respond before you have had time to think. It's the first reaction which is the more powerful - just as they say that first impressions count. If you see a photograph of something, you can feel desire for it even before your brain has decided that you don't need it, that it can't be justified, that it's too expensive or that you can find a better deal elsewhere. Once you're hooked, just like being a fish, it's very hard to escape.

Exactly how a professional packshot photographer achieves this would take up a mammoth book, perhaps several but it's worth being aware that if you're considering saving money by carrying out packshot photography in house, you may find that the plan backfires. Remember, a catalogue photo needs to do far more than simply show customers what your product looks like. A picture of a tasty boar may well sound attractive, but few of our ancestors would have survived for long on pictures alone. Give your customers what they need - feed them meat, not paper!


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October 12, 2011

Photography Tips for Getting Amazing Black and White Photos

In this post, we will check out a number of important photography tips regarding shooting in black and white. Black and white pictures generally are represented as a spectacular photography form as they are inclined to share feelings which could not be realized in a color picture. As you'll observe in this article, a lot of the photography tips for creating effective back and white photos focus on subtlety, and how to makes use of the strength of light and dark areas to bring out the details of your subject.

Utilizing Natural Illumination

Considering that black and white pictures are in reality grey, black, and white, we actually end up with a good variety of distinct tones with which we can work. Natural illumination is actually an effective method of obtaining expressive make up in the photograph. As an example, employing decreased light in the evenings may possibly cast a more somber, brooding scene as compared to making use of the gentle, misty warm tones of a morning sunrise or the harsh, sterile and clean lighting connected with the midday direct sun light.

These kinds of distinct lighting situations may be especially powerful whenever combined with monochrome landscape images. For example, common trees which might not necessarily amount to an extremely intricate arrangement in color can be captured early in the day or maybe late evening hours to create shadows and silhouettes that make for a considerably more fascinating scene.

Taking photos of Silhouettes

Maybe you have seen photographs of silhouettes that employed intriguing angles to generate a more intricate and interesting composition. The basic splendor of photographing silhouettes is that often it distills the form of one's subject to a simpleness that achieves a particular degree of feeling. Consequently one of the extremely vital photography tips pertaining to recording silhouettes would be to continually focus on the shape and form associated with your own subject matter.

Catching Emotional Images

Tonality is a major element in capturing emotionally charged black and white pictures. When you have mastered the capability to manipulate the available lighting and dark areas, you will start to notice ways to impart varying degrees of tone in to your photos to create the desired effect. One of the principal and most exciting circumstances of this in black and white pictures is the usage of incredibly stark contrasting concerning well-lit portions of the composition which are near to the white-colored end of the tonality range and darker components which usually show up closer to black. By developing these solid contrasts, you will frequently capture an aspect of dimension and depth of field helping to make the subject seems to be 3-D.

In this particular age of unnaturally over-saturated effects in color pictures, black and white digital photography can be quite a refreshing technique to offer splendid contrast to your shots. It can be a terrific way to draw the attention onto the discreet details and emotion of the subject. Once you master these kinds of black and white photography tips, you'll capture rewarding photographs packed with tonality that you may not be able to create with color photographs.


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October 11, 2011

Flower Photography - Tips for Better Photos

Nothing can be more rewarding and relaxing than to photograph flowers. Almost any season lends itself for this purpose. If you live in colder zones, then you can still photograph specimens which are potted and kept indoors. In the south this is usually not the problem. Although dealing with the heat and humidity is.

One time tested approach to flower photography is to approach the subject from a documentary standpoint. It involves taking shots of all the parts of the specimen; the stalk, petals, stamen, leaves. It also encompasses shots that are wide angle, zoomed in and macro.

Most flower petals are translucent so their photography has to be approached more carefully. Care should be given to shots in which the light source is so strong that you end up losing much of the petal's details. Pay attention to red flowers since film reacts more to this color than to any other and the photo can result in the red petals rendered as seemingly "washed out". The use of a diffuser is strongly recommended as is shooting under an overcast sky. The light is softer and the shadows less harsh. Reflectors are also useful as they can add light to shaded areas especially if you are shooting in heavy brush or woods.

Another technique is to photograph flowers after a light rain or to mist them with water prior to the photo. Water drops can add interesting and intriguing details to the shot. If doing macro, try to focus on individual drops of water and you may be able to even capture reflections from it. Do however, include a bit of the foliage.

You can create a solution of three parts water and one part mineral oil/glycerin to spray the flowers with. It does not harm the flower and the drops last much longer.

For macro shots you should use a tripod or mono pod. Photos at high magnifications will reveal motion much easier than on other shots. One technique or tool that is very useful is to use a clamp to hold the subject in place and to minimize motion. You can make your own by simply attaching a small clamp (no teeth) to a thin metal or wood rod which you then stick in the ground, or you can use a semi-flexible cable or wire. Be careful not to include the clamp in the final shot. Photo cubes are also good and easy to make yourself. They are just a box of white material with one side being side-less and another side containing a hole through which you introduce the lens and take the photograph.

I often submit photos to publications and regardless of the subject I annotate the particulars of the shot such as film type, lens size,location,and common and scientific name of the subject.

http://hubpages.com/hub/Photographing-Flowers?done

My name is Luis E Gonzalez. Long time Miami resident, enjoys photography and has been doing so for over 20 years. Currently employed in the social services industry in career development. Graduate of the University of Miami with bachelors degree and concurrent doctorate degree.

Varied experience in many fields, such as US. Navy reserve member during the operations Dessert Storm & Iraqi Freedom, State of Florida Law Enforcement Officer, Public School Teacher, Retail Management. I am dedicated to sharing my photography experience with everyone. You mat reach me at luisegonzalez1961@hotmail.com

http://hubpages.com/profile/LuisEGonzalez

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Luis E Gonzalez - EzineArticles Expert Author

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October 10, 2011

The Basics of Great Travel Photography - How to Make an Interesting Slideshow of Your Travels

So you've come home from a fantastic trip and the first thing you do after petting the cat is race to your computer and download the 2,000 photos you took with your digital camera. What do you want to do? You want, of course, to share your photos with your family, friends, co-workers, coffee shop barista and just about anyone else who shows any curiosity. It's only natural to want to show people evidence of your adventures and experiences.

But you know the old cliche about hosts boring their guests with vacation slideshows? Well, behind every cliche is a grain of truth. How can you avoid falling into this cliche?

There are a handful of very simple rules you can easily follow to make your holiday snapshots a great success with everyone.

1. Edit ruthlessly. This is, perhaps, the most difficult step. You've taken 2,000 photographs over the past week - and how do you whittle them down to the "chosen few"? Well, a nice trick I like to use is pretend you didn't have a digital camera with unlimited memory, but instead, you had an old film camera. (If you're too young to remember taking photos with film, talk to someone older who remember how you had to be choosy about the snaps you took.) Think: "If I had a film camera, I would have only taken two or three photos of the Eiffel Tower, not two hundred. Which are my best three? Another rule of thumb I like to use to help with this step is: No more than five photos from any single day. (This is based on 35 photos for a week vacation, 70 photos for a two-week vacation, etc. The slideshow can't be too long.) It's tough to do, but it forces you to be critical of your work. And you may be surprised what "gems" you can come up with.

2. When editing ruthlessly, create tiers of photos. When I go through my photos, I generally make three (virtual) piles: slideshow material, great memories, and record shots. The "slideshow material" consists of the five best shots per day. The "great memories" are the photos that have sentimental value, but aren't necessarily 'great.' These largely include photos that include my family or travel companions. These might also include photos I want to enlarge to hang in my house. Remember, sentimental photos might be full of meaning and emotion for you, but rarely make interesting slideshow material to engage your viewers. Finally, the "record shots" are just that - and this will likely be the largest pile.

3. Include only a few family snapshots - balance your choices. Again, not easy, since you automatically want to show "look, the kids where here, and here, and here, and..." But remember that it's understood that your kids were with you at all times - you didn't ditch them for several days in the middle of the trip. When I took my kids to Venice, my slideshow shots included only two of the kids: one of them overlooking the Grand Canal with the city spread out behind them, and another casual shot of them eating gelato by the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. I chose those because each featured the city prominently, and each told a narrative of the kids experiences in Venice. From a slideshow perspective, it's understood that the kids saw everything else, and I know my co-workers don't want to see endless snaps of my kids. You need to balance your photos - a few with the kids, a few landscapes, a few "day in the life of an average citizen" shots, a few funny shots... this balance will make for an engaging narrative.

4. Create a narrative with your shots. This is the fun part. When choosing your "slideshow photos," keep in mind that you want to build a narrative. Try not to just select random photos sorted chronologically - that won't be a very interesting slideshow. Instead, try to think about the story you'll be telling as you're going through the photos. If chosen well, every photo should have a story attached to it. If, in your selections, you have a photo where all you could say is: "and here's another one of Bob" you likely shouldn't include it. But if you can say: "We found this little village in the middle of nowhere, and this bird came up to Bob and..." it's likely a keeper.

5. It's not all about you. This is a tough one - we all want to make it about ourselves. But the narrative you build by selecting your shots should also be about the place, not just about you visiting the place. One of my favourite photos from a trip to Mali (and other people's favourite as well) is a photograph of a lone fisherman in early morning casting his net. I was lucky enough to catch the net in mid-air, spread above him. No one I know is in the picture, there's no vast landscape in the picture, it's not a special event or special day - it's just a man on his boat casting a net, like he does every day. But it tells a great story about how people live in Mali. So don't be afraid to include simple images that have nothing to do with your vacation, but everything to do about the narrative of other people's lives in the place you visited. Your audience will appreciate you.

So with a few simple rules for how to effectively narrow down your vacation photos from 2,000 to a few dozen, you'll have an engaging and interesting slideshow that people will look forward to. And maybe even learn a thing or two about a distant place.

Future articles will have more tips on taking effective and interesting travel photographs while you're away.

Kevin Harries is a photographer based out of Toronto, Canada, and is the principal of VistaKWH. He has traveled extensively, and has never been accused of taking boring travel photographs. He is also involved in fine art photography, with many of his images available through Getty Images, as well as through his website, http://www.vistakwh.com/. He specialized in large format prints.

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October 09, 2011

The Changing Styles of Food Photography

Our appetites have changed over the years and no more is this clearly reflected than in food photography. The rise of organic, real food combined with a focus on healthier diets over the last decade has seen a major change in how food is presented through photography.

No longer are we quite as tempted by a plate of perfect looking, vividly coloured food rested neatly on a table. These days, food photographers set out to capture society's ever-changing tastes by 'keeping it real' - in other words - messy is in. Think of a slice of chocolate cake with icing oozing off the side, or a succulent steak with pepper sauce splashed almost carelessly about the plate. Today, this is how we like to see our food presented. This messy approach to food photography is now the favoured style for many in the food business.

If you look through a recent cook book or check out some recipe websites, then the chances are you're more likely to see this rather modern style of food photography, and it's not just about being messy. Food photographers are more likely to use natural light instead of artificial studio lights and less props to keep the shot looking clean, simple and giving more focus to the food. Food photographers will also often use different effects such as extreme close ups and unusual angles to make the food appear more visually appealing.

However another style of food photography has emerged in recent years. Referred to playfully as 'food porn', the food photographer will style the food in a provocative almost sensuous manner to get the customer's appetite truly whetted. Often this food styling is used to shoot exotic or rather indulgent dishes - usually packed full of calories. This style is useful when marketing unhealthy food as it can be promoted as an indulgent treat, rather than trying to pretend to the ever-discerning public that it offers any nutritional value. The term food porn was first coined by feminist writer Rosalind Coward back in 1984 and has now become one of the buzz words for foodies everywhere.

Of course, the styles of messy food photography and food porn haven't quite reached fast food restaurants. Pictures of perfect hamburgers and long straight fries still seem to adorn the menus and its advertisements. Most people aren't going to head to your average fast food restaurant for an organic, natural meal - so messy food photography is deemed not as relevant in this environment.

Whatever is next for food photography, the one thing that will never change is its overall aim to sell to customers - and this takes real skill. The food photographer needs to visually convey not just the attractive appearance of the food, but also its aromas, taste and texture. This is not easy when you consider you can't actually touch, sample or smell the food from a photograph. However, if the image successfully captures all these elements, then this makes the food much more appetising to customers, in turn increasing their propensity to buy - and that can only be good for the food industry.


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October 06, 2011

Wedding Photography: A Lucrative Way to Earn

Modern wedding photography has shunned the traditional wedding photography style. Most photographers of weddings today concentrate on presenting a more artistic way of documenting important and memorable moments of a wedding.

Wedding photography has always been one of the most important parts in a wedding preparation. People acquire the services of a photographer depending on his reputation and photograph taking techniques. More and more people especially those from the younger generation see traditional photography as very monotonous, boring and tiresome. Nowadays, you can find many photography studious who are well equipped to provide world class service to their customers be it for weddings, baptismal, birthdays and any other momentous occasions.

Making photography a career is very lucrative. It is one of the best options for someone who is looking to find ways to earn an income be it part-time or full time. Some do it for free as a hobby. I have seen a lot of people who are very much interested in pursuing a career in photography not only because they want to indulge in activities that are interesting, but because they have an eye for beauty. Indeed, one's innate skill is also very important when it concerns taking stunning photographs. A talented photographer can capture special moments and the best scenarios instantly.

One can enroll in training courses of wedding photography, fashion photography, commercial photography as well as creative photography. Institutions offering courses in photography have been mushrooming nowadays. When you search the web, you will find that there are numerous online institutions offering these courses where an aspirant photographer can have himself enlisted. Before you proceed, ensure that you are joining a legal and authorized institution in order to save money and be assured that you get the best training you deserve.

The internet is the best place to find a good and reputable institution to learn photography. Online learning is also a great alternative to learn this craft since you can do it from the comforts of your home. Since there are thousands of online institutions offering a myriad of courses, you definitely need to make some research properly over the web and take time to check the different styles and techniques that an institution is offering. For beginners, the course should contain informative contents that help learners and aspirants to fully understand all the features, phases and characteristics of photography.

Wedding photography is one of the most interesting as well as very challenging tasks especially for weddings. The photographer who delivered and produced excellent photos from a wedding becomes a part of every couple's memories. Just by looking at their photographs, it instantly reminds them the name of the photographer or the name of the studio that they commissioned to take photos at their wedding. Most experienced photographers carry a complete set of equipments. They often use two professional standard cameras as well as back up cameras, different types of lenses and lighting equipments plus a laptop with the required software that are continually updated according to technological advances and industry trends.


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April 01, 2011

Canon EOS 60D 18.0 MP Digital SLR Camera Review






Introduction
Canon has released several high quality DSLR camera bodies over the last 5 years including the EOS 30D, 40D, 50D, Rebel T2i and the EOS 7D. The key improvements have been related to the 1) the size of the sensor, 2) the frame rate during the shooting mode and 3) the number of frames which the processor can save in one burst.
Both the Rebel T2i and the EOS 7D have an 18MP sensor. The EOS 60D not only has an 18MP sensor, but it also has video capability.




So how does this latest model compare to previously released camera bodies?

Advantages
1) 18.0 - megapixel APS-C CMOS Sensor - those remote bird shots can now be cropped even more without losing image quality. This is a big advantage compared to the older Canon models 50D (15.1MP), 40D (10.1MP) or 30D (8.2MP).

2) Full 1080p HD video capture with NTSC or PAL frame rates of 24p, 25p or 30p (50p or 60p at 720p HD and SD). This is the first of the Canon top end DSLR's to feature video capturing capability. In combination with a good telephoto lens this can be a key advantage provided the equipment will be mounted on a solid tripod.

3) In camera RAW processing. This new feature is maybe nice to have but most professional photographers will continue to prefer to do the RAW image processing on the computer.

4) Price - 25% cheaper than the Canon EOS 50D.


Disadvantages

1) Partial Weather Sealing - only the Canon 1-series bodies are weather sealed. The 60D has the same level of weather sealing as the 50D but slightly less than the 7D. Better not to get your 60D wet!

2) Slower Frame Rate - the processor can only shoot up to 5.3 fps, in bursts of up to 58 JPEGs - somewhat slower than the Canon 50D, which has 6.3 fps with bursts of up to 90 JPEG's, a definite disadvantage when shooting birds in flight.

3) The 60D does not have the magnesium alloy chassis and does not feel as solid as its predecessor the 50D. This for me is a definite downgrade in the quality of the camera, and I don't understand Canon's reason to sacrifice cost in this way.


Summary
The Canon EOS 60D 18.0 MP Digital SLR Camera offers some advantages over the Canon EOS 50D but also some disadvantages.
I guess it all depends whether you really want video capability in your DSLR. If not then it may be better to wait for the "70D".

March 30, 2011

Basic Photography Tips for Beginners

So, you've bought a camera. But there's this teeny little problem about the whole thing: you don't know the first thing about cameras or the principles it functions on! Not to worry though, this article is here precisely for that purpose. To guide you through the basics of photography without sounding like a lecture in Physics. First things first, the camera is basically a device that captures the scene in front of you, using the same principle that applies to your eyes. Light enters your eyes, passes through the lens and forms a image on the retina.


Now, just hold that thought and think about the following points:


Aperture: This is nothing but the function of the camera that regulates the amount of light coming in the camera. Think of it as your iris which adjusts according to the light outside. Don't you experience a blackout of sorts when you enter a dark room from a brightly lit area? That's what happens when the aperture of the camera is inappropriately set. So, lower the light, higher the aperture.


Exposure: This is the amount of light that is allowed to fall on the film/sensor. Not much to explain here, but the correct manipulation of exposure can do aesthetic wonders for your photographs. Exposing your sensor for a long period, results in, more light falling on your sensor, making your picture brighter.


Shutter-Speed: Simple. The camera is your eye. The shutter is your eyelid. It's that easy. How to adjust shutter speeds to get awesome effects? Keep it fast if you want stop-motion photos. For example, sweat jerking off a footballer's forehead as he kicks the ball. Or, keep it slow if you want a blurry effect.


Lens: Every camera has a lens. Digital, SLR, mobile phone, you name it. They are the basic components of the camera and can be very helpful in defining your particular style of photograph. If you're a sports photographer, use a telephoto; for landscape, use wide angle and so on.


Depth of field - could be used to describe sharp focused area in a photograph. We can shoot either way area focused is sharp focused and foreground and or background are blurred While we also choose to take a photo where every element is sharp and crystal clean


These were just the basics of photography. Though reading it doesn't make you an expert, it sure will help you in understanding what those buttons on your DSLR are used for!.